broad peak – 8047m (50 days)
Broad Peak is so named for the breadth of its top but the locals call it Falchan Kangri. The height of main peak is 8,047m/26,401ft. It has also been called enormously triple-headed Breithorn (4,165m high three-headed peak of European Alps) of the Baltoro. More than 3150 meters ascent from the base camp on West Spur and North Ridge is on the scrambling weaves of snow and rock to the crest of Spur. The route beyond is entirely on glacier with occasional ice walls over 7500 meters. A well defined route leads from the Col at 7800 to the summit.
As Austrian Expedition led by Marcus Schmuck reached the summit through West Face and North Ridge` without using oxygen on June 9, 1957. The successful climbers were; Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger and Hermann Buhl.
Itinerary
Day | Program | Accomodation |
21-06-2021 | Arrival Islamabad, transfer to hotel for overnight | Hotel |
22-06-2021 | Drive to Chilas (13-14 hours | Hotel |
23-06-2021 | Drive to Skardu (9 hours) | Hotel |
24-06-2021 | Briefing and final preparations | Hotel |
25-06-2021 | Drive to Askoli by jeeps (6 hours) | Camping |
26-06-2021 | Trek to Jhula (5-6 hours) | Camping |
27-06-2021 | Trek to Paiju (6-7 hours) | Camping |
28-06-2021 | Rest day in Paiju | Camping |
29-06-2021 | Trek to Urdukas (7-8 hours) | Camping |
30-06-2021 | Trek to Goro-II (5-6 hours) | Camping |
01-07-2021 | Trek to Broad Peak Base Camp (7-8 hours) | Camping |
02-07 to 27-07-2021 | Climbing Days for Broad Peak | Camping |
28-07-2021 | Transfer from Broad Peak BC to K-2 BC | Camping |
29-07 to 14-08-2021 | Climbing Days for K-2 | Camping |
15-08-2021 | Trek to Goro II (7-8 hours) | Camping |
16-08-2021 | Trek to Khuburste (7-8 hours) | Camping |
17-08-2021 | Trek to Jhula ( 7 hours) | Camping |
18-08-2021 | Trek to Askoli (6-7 hours) | Camping |
19-08-2021 | Drive to Skardu | Hotel |
20-08-2021 | Flight to Islamabad or drive to Chilas | Hotel |
21-08-2021 | Free day or drive from Chilas to Islamabad | Hotel |
22-08-2021 | Departure from Islamabad | On board |