Distaghil Sar
7885 m
Overview
Distaghil Sar is a massive peak in the Hispar Muztagh sub-range of the Karakoram, Pakistan. It is the highest mountain in this range and one of the tallest in Pakistan, known for its isolated and rugged beauty.
There are three summits of this peak, North 7,885 meters, Central 7,760 meters and South 7,696 meters.
1960: First ascent by a German-Austrian expedition. The climbers—Günther Stärker, Diether Marchart, and Wolfgang Georgi—reached the summit via the south face, marking a significant achievement in Karakoram mountaineering.
Subsequent Attempts:
Multiple expeditions have targeted the various summits of Distaghil Sar, but most have been turned back by bad weather, difficult terrain, and logistical challenges.
The East and West peaks have also been climbed, though these ascents are much less documented compared to the main summit.
Expedition Facts
Expedition Name: Distaghil Sar
Expedition Code: ATP-XP-13
Expedition Zone: Restricted Zone
Approach route: Islamabad-Skardu-Askole-Hispar Pass
Expedition Grade: Extremely Hard
Duration: 40 days
Average Daily walk: 6-7 hours
Trekking days (in & out): 12
Hotel Nights: 08
Best Time: May to August
Visa Category: Mountaineering & Trekking
Visa Sub Category: Mountaineering
Permit Requirement: A mountaineering permit is required as the expedition falls in the restricted zone.
Gallery
Itinerary
Arrival in Islamabad, transfer to hotel. 500m, Hotel
Day 2. Islamabad–SkarduFlight to Skardu (1 hour) or drive to Chilas. (10-12 hours) 2300m, Hotel
Day 3. Chilas–SkarduReserve day or drive from Chilas to Skardu. (7-8 hours) 2300m, Hotel
Day 4. SkarduDay for final preparations. 2300m, Hotel
Day 5. Skardu–AskoliJeep drive to Askoli (6 hours). 3000m, Tents
Day 6. Askoli–JholaTrek to Jhola (5-6 hours). 3100m, Tents
Day 7. Jhola–PaijuTrek to Paiju (6-7 hours). 3450m, Tents
Day 8. PaijuRest day for acclimatization. 3600m, Tents
Day 9. Paiju–KhuburtzeTrek along the Hispar Glacier. 4000m, Tents
Day 10. Hispar Base campTrek to hispar base camp. 4700m, Tents
Day 11-30. ClimbingClimbing. Tents
Day 31. Base campRemove all equipment and waste. Tents
Day 32. KhuburtzeTrek to Khuburtze. Tents
Day 33. PaijuTrek to Paiju. Tents
Day 34. JholaTrek to jhola. Tents
Day 35. AskoleTrek to Askoli. Tents
Day 36. Askole-SkarduOvernight in Skardu
Day 37. SkarduRest day in skardu
Day 38. Skardu–IslamabadFlight to Islamabad
Day 39. IslamabadReserve day
Day 40. Hotel–AirportDeparture from Islamabad.
Note:
The option of taking a flight to Skardu after arrival in Islamabad on day 1 is possible depending upon the arrival time of international flight.
If the flight operates for Skardu on day 2, drive to Askoli on day-4 is possible to gain an extra day for climbing/acclimatization.